Time travel with meat pate and puree

Time travel with meat pate and puree

By Dr. Kyle Muller

“Pie and Mash” has been the traditional meal of the working class in eastern London since Victorian times. But where manufacturers are sold as luxury apartments, this tradition is threatened.

In “Manze’S “sits David and eats at noon. In front of him on the plate:” Pie and Mash ” – meat pate and potato puree, as well as a parsley sauce, called” Liquor “. You have to drive for a long time to get such a quality, says the electrician who has to do in the neighborhood. If it can be set up, he comes here for lunch.

Michael is picking up his lunch at the front of the counter, he wears Burberry scarf and a trendy cord jacket. It is above all the memory that leads him here. In the past, they always came here with the family. His grandfather sat back there, says Michael and points to a table.


People eat in the "Manze" restaurant in London.

View of the manze’S: White tiles on the walls, the tables are made of marble – and easily wipe off.

Here in the “Manze’S “meet very differently people – but everyone loved” pie and mash “, this very simple and inexpensive food for London. In the past, it was an important meal for the shift workers south of the Thames. But now the offer of competition has increased, the meat pastes are no longer so popular.

The recipe has not changed

Rick Poole grew up in this shop. The 64-year-old started working here with eleven, he says. First wash plates on the weekend, later cooking, shopping and so on. This shop and two other shops belong to him. In the meantime, the daughter Emma Harrington has joined her husband. He wants to take it slow now, says Rick.

His shop in the Tower Bridge Road has been around for over 120 years, founded by his grandfather. The recipe has not changed over the years. The interior is still original and typical of these “Pie and Mash” shops: white tiles, some artfully decorated with flower patterns. At the counter there are meat pies and potato stamp from the pot, the sauce. Then the guests take a seat at the marble tables. They are easy to wipe off.

From the basement where the kitchen is, the sheets with the meat pies come up in a small cargo elevator, which is operated with a rope. 1,000 pieces are baked there per day. It all looks very much like from the 19th century.


Employees in the kitchen of the "Manze" restaurant in London.

Hundreds of pies are baked in the kitchen every day.

Lighter cuisine is required today

At the time there were still around 300 of the typical shops in London – now there are only 40. The eating behavior has changed, people eat more easily because they no longer work so hard, the offer has also grown. There is a kebab shop in this street, in the branch of a large chain, documented baguettes are sold right next door.

Such a bit “Manze’s “like a time capsule in the middle of the turbulent London. An island in this district of Bermondsey, which is becoming increasingly fancier.

In the past, the Hartley’s jam factory was just around the corner. Vinegar was also made here. And when the Tower Bridge was built, the workers also came to the store here to eat “Pie and Mash”, says Rick. In the meantime, the factory days are sold as luxury apartments. The ads hang in the shop window of a real estate agency. A rather expensive patch for normal earners. And right next to the broker there is a noble Italian restaurant, there is coffee-to-go opposite.

The “Manze’s “can hold. The shop is an institution – and it can assert itself in a district that the gentrification has reached. The recipe for success: tradition, online trade and social media.


The "Manze" restaurant in London.

The “Manze’S “in the Southwark district of London south of the Thames has been around for 120 years.

Stars, bankers and football fans come

There is a firm clientele who comes from, says Rick. And his daughter complemented, and stars and bankers would also come here, a rather colorful mix. At the weekend the fans of the local football team celebrate – then the restaurant rages. Behind the counter there is a megaphone for operation so that it still penetrates.

Every day is different here, says Emma, ​​which is why she loves the shop like this. She also takes care of the social media appearance. The “Manze’S “and” Pie and Mash “are now cult, a piece of cockney culture – threatened with extinction, and yet quite resistant.

Kyle Muller
About the author
Dr. Kyle Muller
Dr. Kyle Mueller is a Research Analyst at the Harris County Juvenile Probation Department in Houston, Texas. He earned his Ph.D. in Criminal Justice from Texas State University in 2019, where his dissertation was supervised by Dr. Scott Bowman. Dr. Mueller's research focuses on juvenile justice policies and evidence-based interventions aimed at reducing recidivism among youth offenders. His work has been instrumental in shaping data-driven strategies within the juvenile justice system, emphasizing rehabilitation and community engagement.
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